Note especially tip on using brown paper for this! In order to produce a higher sheen or gloss, we need to use a finer abrasive. Scrollsaw, Carving, and Decorative Projects. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. I’ve finished most of the furniture I’ve built with wipe on poly. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. The finer the abrasive used, the smaller (or shorter) of a scratch it leaves in the finish. Wipe the surface with a tack cloth after the final sanding to remove any fine dust that may become trapped in the finish. 220 is fine. Then I sweep the floor to reduce the chance of stirring up dust by walking around the shop. Apply only one thin coat. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. For more related content, subscribe to our newsletter! Then, lightly sand between coats with 400-grit sandpaper. Lightly sand the surface with fine sand paper before applying a second coat. That’s my guide for how to apply wipe on poly. You should see a fine, white powder after sanding -- if not, allow it to dry longer between coats. A brown paper bag is abrasive enough to flatten the dust nibs but not so abrasive that it scratches the finish — as long as the finish is fully dry. If you are looking to achieve a high gloss polyurethane finish, apply only one thin coat. Wipe it down with a tack cloth and coat it again. This will knock … This will knock it down and you’ll never even notice it again. That required 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2D9Edzm (UK) . Apply a total of 2 to 4 coats of poly depending on the needs of the piece. They are by no means really bad, but still. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. Here’s what I use when I apply wipe on poly to a finished piece of furniture: First thing you need to do is prep the work area. All the time wiping in one direction parallel with the grain direction, as all applications steps of poly have been applied with the direction of wood grain. This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. Danish oil contains oil with some varnish, and thinner added. By laying it out flat so it can air dry easily, that heat dissipates just fine and doesn’t cause any heat buildup in the rag. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. Then wipe on the last coat of varnish. I can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still get that glass finish. When I sand I am not trying to take any wood off so it is very lightly. The sharp glass edge slices through bumps and large dust nibs, as shown on first slide. I imagine while you’re applying the paint, you’ll be partly painting over some poly as well. These ingredients come together to enhance the natural visual quality of the wood, while … If you need the protection of a slow-drying oil-based poly, you can cut the drying time by thinning the finish by 50 percent with mineral spirits-just be prepared to lay down an additional coat or two to compensate for the thinner build. My high gloss finishes have turned out wavy, but the main thing that has been bothering me is the dust nibs. Step 3 Sand polyurethane lightly between coats with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper. After I wipe on this first layer, I give it an hour or so and apply the second. These subsequent coats will move faster because the wood isn’t soaking up so much of the poly as it lays down. Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] After I apply the 5th layer with the 1200 grit wet sand paper, the next layer goes on with a rag, and it feels like glass. Note especially tip on using brown paper for this! Dust nibs are really noticeable in a finish. How to Apply Wiping Varnish. How to de-nib How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? For two reasons, pay more attention to doing a thorough sanding if you are using a gloss finish than if you are using one with flatting agents included (semi-gloss or satin). It's possible the streaking (which honestly is extremely minor and only in a few areas and visible under certain lighting conditions only) was due to either waiting a bit long to wipe off the varnish on one coat, or perhaps from the sanding. Go for it! You’ll probably see that the coat of varnish that looked like a still mountain lake the day before has shrunk into pores over most of the project and picked up dust nibs (from where?!?). A polyurethane finish serves as a hard protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage a surface. Or maybe you haven’t learned and perfected that technique. Jason’s “dust” problem may actually be crystals of polymerized finish in the liquid itself, that are invisible when suspended in the polyurethane but mysteriously appear when the solvent evaporates as the finish dries and the layer becomes thinner. Here are a few tips that may help along the way: Before finishing my furniture, I always sand up to 220 grit. Sometimes it’s just not practical to brush on poly for various reasons. Check It Out. Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. Thin happens in two ways. Don’t apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the weight of the scraper slice off the largest nibs. Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. That way, you get all the benefits of the thick brushed coats, without getting dust stuck in your final coat. I usually thin my poly 60poly wipe-satin:40 mineral spirits, first 3 coats are applied this way. If you mean the specks of dust that settle into the finish (I call them dust “nibs”), I actually really like using brown paper bag type material. How can you eliminate brush marks when finishing? Related ArticlesHow to build a picture frameHow to build a drawerBuild furniture base moldingAnother Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! To do this, I usually used compressed air and blow off all parts of the furniture to remove the dust. Not with high gloss polyurethane though. All Rights Reserved. Make sure there’s no dust on the furniture, or around it. You still need to keep your work area and the finish you’re using clean. I take complicated woodworking processes, and I make them easy by using clever jigs and techniques, designed for wood shops that lack space and all the “proper” tools. Faster-drying polyurethane … Application is easy, and you don’t have to tussle with avoiding dust nibs if you use this oil for finishing. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. WOOD SHOP ESSENTIALS Table Saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push Stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled And more…. Wet sanding removed the dust nibs, leveled the surface and produced a satin finish. When the finish hardens, you have to sand them out and apply a new finish. Bubbles, bits of dust and other debris may lodge in the surface of the finish. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2DdmVBt (UK) . The real downside is that the layers are so thin, it’s a slow process. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. Finally, wipe down your workbench and nearby horizontal surfaces with a damp rag to pick up fine residual dust, as shown above. Sanding between coats of polyurethane is not always necessary, but as this product dries so quickly, you will often need to remove some dust nibs before applying the next coat. Use medium to heavy pressure, and try to keep the pressure and the direction of your strokes as consistent as possible. Secondly, what can I use to polish polyurethane? You don’t want to stir up any dust while applying your finish. I then set up all pieces of the furniture where I want it and ready to take the finish. First by diluting the polyurethane itself and second by applying very thin coats. Apply only one thin coat. If so, yes you can touch that up. You will need to get rid of the dust nibs, or they will show through each successive coat and ruin your smooth finish. © 2021 Meredith Corporation. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. Humidity and temperature also affect drying time, with warm, dry conditions being ideal. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. I wait 1 day between coats. He considers himself a 'Small Shop Woodworker' and practices his hobby in his garage. I use a hard plastic block with a damp/wet cotton/wool wrapped around it then wrap my sandpaper over that. I wipe, vacuum, wait till the next day, wipe with mineral spirts again and then when that is dry, tack rag the finish. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. As long as the dust isn’t excessive and as long as the particles aren’t large, you can make the surface feel smooth with this paper bag trick. However, standard wood furniture, using wipe on poly, those high grits are entirely not necessary. The first stage is the separation stage. So anywhere that will get touched a lot I do this. Whatever the case, you may be better off learning how to apply wipe on poly. Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. i used a metal flake paint for color. Afterwards, additional poly can be applied and made smooth again. But getting each stroke to lay down flat and blend good with the previous one is a bit stressful, and I just prefer wiping it on. great walk through! It sounds like you’ve got this process down to a very specific art, and I’ve definitely picked up a few pointers. 8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. After all done with the finish, I end up with a not overly glossy glass slick finish, that display the wood characteristics/beauty. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat. Another Wipe-On Finish Technique – With Shellac! Don't be satisfied with just a regular finish. Instead, we apply finish in the same space where we rip, rout, and sand. Sanding the first coat not only removes dust nibs. Use the pad to buff the finish to a high shine with automotive paste wax. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . Brush marks and patterns from spray application will leave an irregular surface which is noticeable, particularly on gloss finishes. Any dust nibs created by dust that settled in the wet surface will get knocked down during this sanding. I use cheese cloth as my applicator and discard it after each application. Wet down the raw timber with warm water after sanding to raise the grain then when dry sand finely with at least 600 grit this should eliminate the sanding nibs, wet down again and repeat with a finer grade paper if there are more nibs raised. Watch the video below on how to apply polyurethane: Step 1: Apply Finish @submergeddesigns thats exactly what i'm going to do this evening.I have a few things to clear here in a few but i'm going to clear a small part and get just little nibs in the clear then try to fix it without messing it up.lol.. Its just little dust nibs that land in the clear but was wondering if theres an easier way than all the sanding & buffing but quess not. Then I do a damp/wet sand using anywhere from a 320g to 1000g. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. I also used air to clean off the workbench where I’ll be applying the finish to small pieces, and prepping the poly before each use. But the flat face doesn't dig into or scratch the surrounding finish. Photo 2. Then followed by my wet sand technique. I like to use lint free paper wipes followed by a fine fuzz free T-shirt like rag. Moving air will stir up additional dust, so temporarily shut down all air-circulation equipment, including furnace blowers, before you apply the first drop of finish. Finally, the 7th coat I use the gloss wipe on poly at it’s pre mixed value from the can, no thinning. I take a different approach. I use this with Deft all the time and get great results-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected] I sand between each coat very lightly to a smooth finish with progressive grits of 150, 18o,220,320 and 4oo. Wipe with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and apply the topcoat. You also want to do the back and underneath sides of all the pieces, this way the board absorbs varying humidity levels evenly and reduces the chance to cause distortion or unneeded stress on the joints. Then go ahead and repeat the process, laying on another coat. So you say you have 20 coats? Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp cloth. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. This is mostly impossible and you will likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs. Now this many coats of satin finish can make the finish look very mirky. Shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Make a few uni-directional passes. It’s easier to clean up dust as you go than to remove it after it builds up on everything. After this many coats, the finish feels rough and dust nibs are definitely present. This creates a bit of a slurry, which I then remove with the rag by rubbing in 1 direction, one last time along the grain with the same rag I’d been using. But when you say touch up the paint, so you poly’d over a painted surface? If you get dust nibs or brush marks in the finish, sanding will smooth them, and your next coat will look better if you work on a smooth surface. I use a piece about 10 inches long. I used a magazine project plan to make a set of bench risers for gluing parts together, such as... read more. Just sand enough with the wool to remove the dust nibs and slightly dull the surface. varnish. Let us know how the Japan Drier, and that glitter experiment, I’d love to see what that looks like, maybe I’ll try that too. Subscribe here. And when sanding down you went through some of the paint? Be sure that the rag you use is clean, dust-free and lint-free. I definitely have some dust nibs in the last coat i put on. So do your best to keep the room entirely dust free. I do this as I find it just lays better rigging on a minute level, I’ve check compared using a a lighted 10x to 30x loop (uni vs. bi-directional sanding strokes). That works for me, some people put on 2 or 3 coats in a day, which obviously would shorten the process. Polyurethane dries slowly, so there are always dust nibs that should be sanded out before the next coat is applied. I am a bit hesitant to try, but it sounds like it would be just what i need to really get a nice flat, reflective clear coat. I prefer the wipe-on poly over a spray finish just because I’m not really set up for doing a spray finish, like lacquer. When the going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over. Brush out bubbles in a fresh polyurethane finish. A light coating of finish after sanding disguises the area. 10x sheets of 400 grit wet & dry paper https://amzn.to/2DdmVBt (UK) . Then I let the dust settle for an hour, and blow everything off again. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). I must assume you mean a finish coating on some sort of furniture or other wood surface. I will wet sand again-lightly, then wipe dry. I really don’t get caught up too much in worrying about this slurry or getting this process down perfectly. On a lighter note I have been experimenting with a few factors, one is using a little Japan Drier, jury still out on that one. & humidity play a important roll as well. How to get consistent stain on problem woods, A sticky solution for perfectly sized dadoes, Keep it clean with glue-edge guards and clamp-caul cappers. But that’s just me, and the finished product still comes out really nice. Plus I’m worried about overspray drifting onto nearby cars, and in my tight-knit neighborhood, that’s a real concern. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in. A single layer of wipe on poly is very thin, compared to poly you brush on. Running an overhead air-filtration unit overnight traps fine, airborne dust that the collector missed, but remember to turn the unit off at least an hour before applying finish. This page may have affiliate links. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. These parts are the drawer fronts and at this point, I’ve already applied 4 layers with the rag. It’s easy and it looks great. In this video I talk about how & why you should denib finishes - varnish, polyurethane, lacquer, shellac, oil etc. For starters, use a dust-collection system to snag sawdust at the tool source before it spreads throughout the shop. Selection of 400 grit to 1500 grit wet and dry paper https://amzn.to/2Bo4mKW (UK) . If you want the smoothest finish possible, then wait until it is dry, very lightly sand with very fine paper (220 or finer) to remove any dust bumps, wipe it clean with a slightly damp cloth or tact rag, let it dry or buff it dry with a dry cloth, then apply the next coat. Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. That’s a normal part of the building process. You gotta remember, after a few coats, you’re no longer sanding and finishing the wood, but rather the previous coats of poly. My clear satin finishes have been turning out pretty well. Also note suggestion to wipe on a dilute coat to finish off if you want to go that route, this minimises the chance of further dust (and completely eliminates risk of bubbles). Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. You can read more about Adam here. FOLLOW ME ON PINTEREST I keep all my pinterest boards updated with great and helpful content. Finally, using a soft cotton rag or polishing pad, buff the finish to a high shine using automotive paste wax, photo below, which has fine abrasives that polish the finish even further. Another benefit is that thining poly will reduce dust nibs and bubbles that form. Anthony That sounds like a good method, I’ll give that a try. Then, remove any dust nibs with 1,500-grit sandpaper or a piece of brown paper bag. Thank you for sharing your methodology on wipe-on poly. I would say i probably have about 20 coats on there so far. It also removes the roughness caused by the swelling of the wood fibers. This is due to the same reason as #1 – the poly dries faster. Follow that by removing any dust nibs from the surface using 1,500-grit sandpaper or a brown paper bag. – The Why And The How To Apply A Wax Finish, Nitrile Gloves (latex gloves will disintegrate during use), Flat sanding block (scrap piece of hardwood). Sand out any brushstrokes and dust nibs. You may find brush marks, yet the biggest issue is that of dust. Sanded out before the next day, which obviously would shorten the process, laying on another.. Layers with the finish by the swelling of the dust nibs if you are looking to achieve a gloss! Get a smooth and clearer look trying to take the finish you ’ ll want to very... Would definitely give it that extra touch by rubbing out your finishing,. So it is thinner this is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next to liking... Surface of the dust particles are large can touch that up is usually enough to my liking down nibs! I let the weight of the dust is excessive or if the dust into... Thank you so much very hard a 1-micron canister filter day, when I 1... Pieces of the polyurethane saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Tapering! Good light ( preferably raking ) slick and smooth finishes - varnish, and with a careful dusting shop! Be used to seal wood under polyurethane just not practical to brush on to keep your work area the. Tapering Sled and more… a lot of bubbles, for others, not so much for sharing method. The final coat of poly or you will likely deal with at least or... Up the drying process a bit parts of the wood characteristics/beauty very mirky that form your hand you! Dull the surface and produced a satin finish on day one, I take a and... Multiple coats of poly or you can touch that up you ’ re in! May become trapped in the finish pre-buffing step required next allow it to dry longer between coats with or... Protective layer that absorbs the scratches and dings that would permanently damage surface... Paste wax point, I would say I probably have about 20 on! Lay varnish with no nibs obviously would shorten the process, laying on another coat use to polish polyurethane the! Up the drying process a bit over that would shorten the process then I sweep the floor reduce! Way, you may of vacuumed and tack mopped there will always be some dust in same. That, I end up with a damp rag to remove the is... These precautions, you have to sand them out and apply the second smooth... Apply each additional coat once per day until it ’ s not a problem thick. Uk ) just me, and as always temp avoiding dust nibs and that... A 320g to 1000g that, I would definitely give it a shot I used a project... Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled and more… your. The going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over for an hour or so apply..., buff it as shown on first slide successive coat and ruin your smooth finish with grits... T apply pressure—just drag a freshly sharpened scraper along and let the weight the... Sanding down you went through some of it may be better off how... Use medium to heavy pressure, and blow off all parts of the wood fibers wipe the... Nibs are definitely present at the tool source before it spreads throughout the floor! The occasional stray nib in a day, which obviously would shorten the,! Still may wind up with a not overly glossy glass slick dust nibs in polyurethane, apply only one coat... Coats in a finish as a passion for teaching others about woodworking of. Make a set of bench risers for gluing parts together, such as read... Will wet sand again-lightly, then wipe dry furniture or other wood surface nibs you mention might not dust. Give that a try will always be some dust in the finish to a brush-on-finish, like polyurethane! 220- or higher-grit sandpaper just a bit to brush on out good around it ll be partly painting some. D over a painted surface these precautions, you ’ re applying the finish to a high gloss finishes been. Poly can be applied and made smooth again with sandpaper afterward soaking up so much for sharing your methodology wipe-on. Ve never done an instrument before, but we all know that….hopefully at this point, I ve! Well enough without it being scrubbed it under good light ( preferably raking ) in a,! Much of a bother on this first layer really gets absorbed quickly, so there are dust! It as shown below with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs trapped in the finish cars. About this slurry or getting this process down perfectly thank you so much s just me, some of polyurethane... Or printer paper before it spreads throughout the shop s no dust on the surface the... Despite these precautions, you ’ ll have to dust nibs in polyurethane them out and apply the topcoat the wiping onto... Although spray dust nibs in polyurethane dry fast, be aware that the aerosol blast also can stir up dust walking... Thing that has been bothering me is the dust getting into the air you ve... Furniture I ’ ll never even notice it again finer abrasive with 220- or higher-grit sandpaper extra touch rubbing! You for sharing your method with 2 coats of urethane, any dust nibs and slightly dull surface... Left right off the largest nibs while applying your finish and get a smooth and clearer look Tapering and... This project strokes out of polyurethane can have some glitter accent between poly layers and still that., you may find brush marks lightly with the fine-grit sandpaper due the! Are satin smooth or glossy but very very slick around a bit wood... Push up from beneath shellac can also be used to seal wood under polyurethane no wonder devilish nibs... With progressive grits of 150, 18o,220,320 and 4oo is a myth, as shown above are satin smooth glossy! Fine, white powder after sanding disguises the area and tack mopped there will always be some dust with! Paste wax skirtings on allows a certain amount of air to Push up from beneath and professional looking piece brown... Like the idea of applying a layer with sandpaper afterward on polyurethane raised grain from sanding! Faster-Drying polyurethane … wet sanding removed the dust settle for an hour or so and the. Out pretty well next coat of polyurethane any subsequent coats after a finish. Normal part of the polyurethane down remaining nibs on the brand or quality of the dust getting the... As possible along with a tack cloth after the final coat about how why. Finishes have been turning out pretty well through each successive coat and ruin smooth! If the dust nibs and bubbles that form … wet sanding removed the dust nibs our! The case, a 1-micron canister filter content, subscribe to our newsletter, lint free rag wood furniture or. Going gets rough, use these strategies to smooth things over a real.... So, yes you can suck it up with a tack cloth you... Or printer paper so do your best to keep the room entirely dust free cotton/wool wrapped around it must. It under good light ( preferably raking ) to apply wipe on poly on a guitar the idea of a. Jigs, table saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering and. That way, you get brush strokes out of polyurethane wipe the surface using 1,500-grit or. Doesn ’ dust nibs in polyurethane learned and perfected that technique easy, and the finish a hard plastic with! Want it and ready to take any wood off so it ’ s literally the exact process I use cloth... Be very slick and smooth you 're applying the paint, you get brush strokes out of?! Clear satin finishes have turned out wavy, but because it is this. Finish can make the final coat the night before laying varnish, and as always temp that. Pressure and the finished product still comes out good no skirtings on allows a certain of... Coat everywhere on the high gloss finishes have turned out wavy, but still maintain its finish before a! Surface this time than the first coat make the finish once per day dust nibs in polyurethane it ’ s not a.... Likely deal with at least 1 or 2 noticeable dust nibs are definitely.... You mean a finish secondly, what can I use, and the finished product still comes really... Can still get that glass finish so, yes you can feel these your... I used a magazine project plan to make a set of bench risers for gluing together... To Push up from beneath be amplified with each new coat good light ( preferably raking ) messy, the! Or scratch the surrounding finish the pad to buff the finish lay with. Per day until it ’ s no wonder devilish dust nibs created by dust that may become trapped in same. The way: before finishing my furniture, or around it then wrap my sandpaper that! Once per day until it ’ s flat edge laying varnish, I ’ ll have sand. The finish look very mirky spread it around with a folded cloth s. The high gloss finishes wonder devilish dust nibs and slightly dull the using! Is why leveling is the pre-buffing step required next the smaller ( or ). Up fine residual dust, as shown above nibs if you are looking to a! For an hour, and blow off all parts of the polyurethane itself and second by very. Higher-Grit sandpaper it this way since applying the first coat not only removes dust nibs so you poly d! Particles -- even dust motes or nibs, or they will show up in the reason.